Plumbing Repair Denver CO

But generally speaking it's easy to repair. Now for the purpose of this video I'm going to show you how to solder a 90, okay, also known as an L, which is a very small fitting. This would be, for example, let's say we installed a new vanity or a kitchen cabinet. You'd have a raw copper pipe coming out like so. All right. And then you'd need to put a joint in there of some sort. It might be an L going up like so and then a valve that would shut off the supply to your sink. Okay. So for this purpose I'm just going to solder this 90. I'm going to show you how to properly do it. Ask any plumber how to solder, and you'll get any number of different stories on how to do so. This is is how I solder, not necessarily saying it's the Bible way to solder, but this is how I do it, and it's worked for me for 20 years as a Master Plumber. You need a few things. An emery cloth, this is basically sandpaper, but it's a strip. You need a fitting brush. This is a half-inch fitting brush. You need silver solder. Be careful not to get lead. It says very clearly 95 percent/5 percent. And your trusty torch.

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Wall thickness does not affect pipe or tubing size.[20] 1/2" L copper has the same outer diameter as 1/2" K or M copper. The same applies to pipe schedules. As a result, a slight increase in pressure losses is realized due to a decrease in flowpath as wall thickness is increased. In other words, 1 foot of 1/2" L copper has slightly less volume than 1 foot of 1/2 M copper.[citation needed]
For details about apprenticeship or other opportunities in this occupation, contact the offices of the state employment service; the state apprenticeship agency; local plumbing, heating, and cooling contractors or firms that employ fitters; or local union–management apprenticeship committees. Apprenticeship information is available from the U.S. Department of Labor's Apprenticeship program online, or by phone at 877-872-5627.
 CON'T FROM COMMENTS EARLIER.  However,  the  installation took less than 3/4/ hour and was a basic regulator with no other function.  Looking up the price afterwards, invoice did not list type or price, it appears that it would have cost me around $60 for the regulator and another $15 or so for the additional supplies necessary to install it and it was really a rather simple job with easy access.    Given that, it seems that $300 for less that  an hours worth of on site work,  company says it does not include commute time in its prices, is a little high.  While flat rate quotes are nice, they must take into consideration situations where the work load differs depending on the circumstances.  Therefore, unless you are at the upper end of the harder work needed than the average job. it can be argued that my estimated price of $300 for labor was more than a little high.  Maybe I am wrong since I have not used their services for years and  am not knowledgeable of the costs of equipment and professional labor today.   

Cast iron and ductile iron pipe was long a lower-cost alternative to copper, before the advent of durable plastic materials but special non-conductive fittings must be used where transitions are to be made to other metallic pipes, except for terminal fittings, in order to avoid corrosion owing to electrochemical reactions between dissimilar metals (see galvanic cell).[17]
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